Dar Roumana: A Hidden Gem in the Ancient Labyrinth of Fez

Dar Roumana sits nestled within the historic Medina of Fez, a stark contrast to my previous Moroccan experience. My first visit to this North African kingdom was for work in Casablanca, collaborating with Harvard University, which you can read about here. That bustling metropolis left me somewhat underwhelmed—noisy, polluted, and largely devoid of the charm I had anticipated, especially after my love affair with the classic film bearing its name.

Fez, however, captivated me immediately. This ancient city presents itself as the world’s largest living maze—disorienting yet utterly mesmerizing. My introduction to its wonders began with an impromptu twilight tour through the Medina’s winding alleyways, where time seems suspended between centuries.

During that first evening, we ventured into a magnificent riad owned by French friends of my client. Stepping through its unassuming doorway revealed a candlelit sanctuary where the owner and guests reclined on plush carpets, casually sampling hors d’oeuvres while sipping wine and mint tea. The scene embodied that quintessential Parisian casual elegance, tinged with just the right amount of sophisticated ennui.

Our culinary journey that night took an unexpected turn at Maison Moi Anan, possibly the finest Thai restaurant I’ve ever encountered. The proprietor cultivates much of the produce served, evident in the extraordinary freshness and vibrant flavors of each dish. Perhaps an unconventional choice for a first night in Morocco, but I could have happily dined there throughout my stay.

The primary purpose of my visit was to photograph Dar Roumana following its extensive renovation. Jennifer, the North American owner, has shepherded this architectural treasure for approximately 15 years, with at least five of those dedicated to its meticulous restoration.

“Palace” barely describes this magnificent property. My accommodation rivaled my Barcelona apartment in size, with soaring ceilings reaching perhaps four meters high. Winter brings coolness to these grand spaces, but nestled beneath thick, luxurious quilts on an enormous bed, the temperature became irrelevant. The true challenge was finding motivation to leave such comfort—though work beckoned.

For eight days, I documented every aspect of this exquisite property—its rooms, architectural details, and finally, a celebration marking its reopening. Between assignments, I ventured into La Medina, invariably becoming completely lost among its 9,000 winding passageways.

What I discovered is that Fez harbors two distinct Medinas: one that exists by day and another that emerges at night. Mastering navigation in daylight offers no guarantee of finding your way after sunset, when shops close and familiar landmarks vanish into darkness.

Fez remains a destination I long to revisit, if only to experience that remarkable Thai restaurant once more. Whether I could locate it again remains an entirely different question in this magnificent, bewildering labyrinth.